In:Self- and Other-Reference in Social Contexts: From global to local discourses
Edited by Minna Nevala and Minna Palander-Collin
[Pragmatics & Beyond New Series 342] 2024
► pp. 114–137
Chapter 6Intragroup marginalization in social media
Self- and other-reference on a plus-size fashion brand’s Instagram page
Published online: 14 March 2024
https://doi.org/10.1075/pbns.342.06lim
https://doi.org/10.1075/pbns.342.06lim
Abstract
This chapter discusses plus-size group membership in Instagram (IG) posts published by the fashion retailer
Fashion Nova Curve. Moreover, we focus on the ways in which self- and other-reference are used as tools for Intragroup
Marginalization (IM). By IM we mean distancing by group members that occurs when a certain individual is believed to exhibit
behaviors, values and beliefs that are outside the in-group culture’s norms. Our data consist of 233 Instagram posts published
in October 2021, and our critical discourse analysis focuses on those person referential terms that show in-group membership
polarization. Our results show that both the models and the customers in the IG posts are marginalized by the commenters in
several ways, including critical comments not only from the out-group, but also from the members of the plus-size in-group, as
their bodies are constructed as e.g. ‘not plus-size enough’ or ‘the wrong kind of plus-size’.
Article outline
- 1.Introduction
- 2.Background
- 2.1Intragroup marginalization and person reference
- 2.2The fashion industry and body positivity in social media
- 3.Data and method
- 3.1Fashion Nova
- 3.2Analytical approach
- 4.Case studies: Constructing the ‘real’ plus-size woman
- 4.1Case study 1: Besties
- 4.2Case study 2: New Sheriff in Town
- 4.3Meta-comments
- 5.Discussion
- 6.Conclusion
Notes References
References (34)
Abidin, Crystal. 2016. “‘Aren’t
These Just Young, Rich, Women Doing Vain Things Online?’ Influencer Selfies as Subversive
Frivolity.” Social
Media + Society 2 (2).
Abrams, Dominic, et al. 2000. “Pro-Norm
and Anti-Norm Deviance within and between Groups.” Journal of Personality and Social
Psychology 78: 906–912.
Berry, John W. 2003. “Conceptual Approaches
to Acculturation.” In Acculturation: Advances in Theory,
Measurement, and Applied Research, ed. by Kevin M. Chun, Pamela Balls Organista, and Gerardo Marín, 17–38. Washington, DC: American Psychological Association.
Brathwaite, Kyla N., and David C. DeAndrea. 2022. “BoPopriation:
How Selfpromotion and Corporate Commodification Can Undermine the Body Positivity (BoPo) Movement on
Instagram.” Communication
Monographs 89 (1): 25–46.
Braziel, Jana Evans. 2001. “Sex and Fat Chics:
Deterriorializing the Fat Female Body.” In Bodies Out of
Bounds: Fatness and Transgression, ed. by Jana Evans Braziel, and Katherine LeBesco, 231–254. Berkeley: University of California Press.
Castillo, Linda G., et al. 2007. “Construction
and Validation of the Intragroup Marginalization Inventory.” Cultural Diversity &
Ethnic Minority
Psychology 13 (3): 232–240.
Evans, Calla. 2020. “You
Aren’t What You Wear: An Exploration into Infinifat Identity Construction and Performance through
Fashion.” Fashion
Studies 3 (1): 1–31.
Fairclough, Norman. 2012. “Critical
Discourse Analysis.” In The Routledge Handbook of Discourse
Analysis, ed. by James P. Gee, and Michael Handford, 9–20. London: Routledge.
. 2018. “CDA
as Dialectical Reasoning.” In The Routledge Handbook of
Critical Discourse Studies, ed. by John Flowerdew, and John E. Richardson, 13–25. London: Routledge.
Fashion Nova: About us. Retrieved
from [URL], April 5, 2022.
Gruys, Kjerstin. 2021. “Fit
Models, Not Fat Models: Body Inclusiveness in the U.S. Fit Modeling Job Market.” Fat
Studies. 11(3): 244-257.
Gumperz, John J., and Jenny Cook-Gumperz. 1982. “Introduction:
Language and the Communication of Social
Identity.” In Language and Social
Identity, ed. by John J. Gumperz, 1–21. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Hsiang, Grace. 2005. “‘FOBs’
vs. ‘Twinkies’: The New Discrimination is
Intraracial.” In Language Awareness: Readings for College
Writers, 10th ed., ed. by Paul Eschholz, Alfred Rosa, and Virginia Clark, 306–307. Boston, MA: Bedford’s/St.Martin’s.
Hughes, Aria. 2018. “How
Fashion Nova Won the Internet.” WWD [February 28, 2018]. Retrieved from [URL], April 5, 2022.
Hynnä, Kaisu, and Katariina Kyrölä. 2019 ““Feel
in Your Body”: Fat Activist Affects in Blogs.” Social
Media + Society. 5(4).
Kitroeff, Natalie. 2019. “Fashion
Nova’s Secret: Underpaid Workers in Los Angeles Factories.” The New York
Times [December 16,
2019]. Retrieved from [URL], April 5, 2022.
Kohatsu, Eric L. 2005. “Acculturation: Current
and Future Directions.” In Handbook of Racial-Cultural
Psychology and Counseling: Theory and Research, Vol. 1, ed.
by Robert D. Carter, 207–231. Hoboken, NJ: Wiley.
Limatius, Hanna. 2020a. Communities
of Empowerment: Exploring the Discourse Practices of Plus-Size Fashion
Bloggers. Tampere: Tampere University.
. 2020b. ““I
Think She’s Truly Beautiful”: Celebrity, Gender and Body Positivity in Plus-Size Fashion
Blogs.” Participations: Journal of Audience and Reception
Studies 17 (2). 372-392.
Moscovici, Serge. 1984. “The
Phenomenon of Social Representations.” In Social
Representations, ed. by Robert M. Farr, and Serge Moscovici, 3–69. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Nevala, Minna. 2019. “Two
Miserable Creatures or Those Atrocious Criminals? Evaluative Reference in the Mannings
Murder Reporting.” In Reference and Identity in Public
Discourses, ed. by Ursula Lutzky, and Minna Nevala, 19–41. Amsterdam: John Benjamins.
Nevala, Minna, and Arja Nurmi. 2020. “Being
Wilde: Social Representation of the Public Image of Oscar
Wilde.” In Late Modern English: Novel
Encounters, ed. by Merja Kytö, and Erik Smitterberg, 315–331. Amsterdam: John Benjamins.
Ochs, Elinor. 1993. “Constructing
Social Identity: A Language Socialization Perspective.” Research on Language and Social
Interaction 26: 287–306.
Ojala, Kris, and Drew Nesdale. 2004. “Bullying
and Social Identity: The Effects of Group Norms and Distinctiveness Threat on Attitudes towards
Bullying.” British Journal of Developmental
Psychology 22: 19–35.
Roccas, Sonia, Gabriel Horenczyk, and Shalom H. Schwartz. 2000. “Acculturation
Discrepancies and Well-Being: The Moderating Role of Conformity.” European Journal of
Social
Psychology 30: 323–334.
Sastre, Alexandra. 2014. “Towards
a Radical Body Positive.” Feminist Media
Studies 14 (6): 929–943. .
Tajfel, Henri (ed.). 1982. Social
Identity and Intergroup
Relations. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Tseëlon, Efrat. 1995. The
Masque of Femininity: The Presentation of Woman in Everyday
Life. London: Sage Publications.
van Dijk. Teun A. 2009. Society and Discourse: How
Social Contexts Influence Text and
Talk. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
van Leeuwen, Theo. 2008. Discourse
and Practice: New Tools for Critical Discourse
Analysis. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
